How To Enjoy A Shampoo Bar

HOME	OUR PRODUCTS	FAQ	ABOUT US
CONTACT US	US ORDERS Info	INTERNATIONAL Orders Info	TESTIMONIALS
View Your Basket		My Account: Log-In/Order Status

How To Enjoy A Shampoo Bar
by Claudia, Germany

Like most members I have tried a gazillion different things since joining LHC [Long Hair Community]. CWC, [condition-wash-condition], CO [conditioner only], WO [water only], you name it. It all worked for a while, but I was never wholly satisfied in the long run until I got introduced to shampoo bars – Chagrin Valley bars in particular. I have been using them since September 2006, and the results I get are still awesome. It took quite a while for me to get them to work properly, though – partially due to a necessary adjustment period one has with most new routines, but also because I didn´t quite know how to work with a shampoo bar at first. There is a huge thread on CV [Chagrin Valley] shampoo bars with lots of great information, but it has gotten rather huge and unwieldy, so I thought I would give some relatively short and to-the-point information on how to use a shampoo bar.

What is a shampoo bar?

A shampoo bar is soap, nothing else. Soap is made by combining oil with lye and letting it sit until all the lye has reacted with the oil. Depending on the amount of oil used there's still some oil left at the end of the reaction. If that is the case the soap is called superfatted. All soaps (and shampoo bars) have a pH-value of about 8-10 and therefore are alkaline. This doesn´t mean they are harsh; the CV soaps and shampoos for instance are among the gentlest cleansers I have ever used; but they do interfere with the natural acid mantle of the hair. That's one of the reasons vinegar rinses are recommended after the use of a shampoo.

Why use a solid shampoo rather than a liquid one?

For me the main pro is that a bar shampoo can be made with fewer and more natural ingredients than liquid shampoo. For instance, a solid shampoo doesn't need to contain preservatives. It's also practical, a shampoo bar can double as hand, face, and body soap, you can do your laundry with it and maybe even the dishes. Alright, that's carrying it a bit far, but if you are a hiker and camper like me you'll see the advantage.

Now, to get going…

This is what I do. Your methods may vary, depending on the length and type of your hair, the hardness of your water and so on. But still this may serve as a starting point for you.

I get in the shower, wet down my hair thoroughly and grab a shampoo bar. I use it directly on my hair, applying it in a “combing” motion from the front hairline down to the nape. I do this combing motion maybe a dozen times, then I start to lather up with my hands, massaging well and adding more water as needed. Again I take the shampoo bar and slide it down my length all the way down to my ends, again maybe a dozen times. I massage and gently squeeze the length (more of a straight motion, rather than a circular one this time). I rinse. I repeat. Yes, I lather a second time. And I lather a third time, but only my canopy, while I use a soap bar (soap bars generally are more moisturizing than shampoo bars) on my length and ends as a conditioner. I let this sit for a minute or two while I perform my other showerly duties. I rinse well.

The big finale

There are different opinions on the nature of the acidic rinse as a round-off to the shampoo bar. The acidic rinse serves as a neutralizing agent to the alkaline soap, making it easier for your skin to regain its natural acid mantle. It also smoothes the hair shaft, thus making your hair shinier. And it helps to remove any soap residue and mineral deposits from hard water. Some people never use an acidic rinse; some use it only sometimes. Some swear by apple cider vinegar (ACV) or citric acid.

I use plain white vinegar after every wash, in a dilution of 1 in 10 (100ml vinegar and 900ml water). The harder your water is the stronger your rinse will have to be. It may take you a while to find a dilution that works for you, so don't be afraid to play around. Some people claim vinegar rinses to be drying for the hair. I have never experienced this, but you might want to keep it in mind if you have dry hair anyway. Oh, and by the way: The vinegar smell disappears as your hair dries, so you won't walk around smelling like salad dressing!

OK, so I take a jug with 100ml white vinegar into the shower with me and fill it up from the tap. First I dunk my length in it and swish it around some; then I slowly pour the rinse over my head, making sure every area gets a fair share. I let it sit for a minute and kind of “pat” it through my hair, then I do a fairly quick final rinse, and I'm done.

Shampoo bars and clarifying

Ida says on her website that one doesn't need to clarify when one uses shampoo bars, because shampoo bars are clarifying in themselves. Many people find that they really don't need to clarify; but every once in a while I get to the point when I feel the need to clarify. I use a tablespoon of baking soda dissolved in some conditioner and warm water. I pour this mixture over my head, massage and rinse. I follow with the most moisturizing shampoo bar I happen to have in the house, washing just as usual. I finish with a vinegar rinse.

Troubleshooting

"After washing with a shampoo bar my hair is still greasy." You need to lather really well – it is not sufficient to let the suds run down your length, like you can do with commercial shampoo. Come to think of it: Isn´t it scary that we use something so harsh that it cleans the hair by just running through it? Shampoo bars are much gentler, so you need a certain amount of mechanical cleansing. But they will make your hair clean if used right; I do heavy pre-wash oilings, and they come out with no problem.

“My hair feels coated, waxy and generally weird.” This is an indication of buildup. Did you use a soap bar on your hair? This may be the culprit. Or try to increase the strength of your vinegar rinse.

“I shed a ton when washing with a shampoo bar.” That was what I experienced at first, and it really scared me. I believe you often shed more when you first start on a new routine; also remember that with shampoo bars you need to massage a lot, and the hairs you shed that way were bound to go anyway. In my experience I do shed slightly more during my showers, but significantly less in between.

Reviews: Claudia's very personal opinion

Here is a quick overview over how the different bars worked on my hair (and skin). My hair is 2a/F-M/ii and on the oily side; I wash every four days. My skin is oily in the t-zone, but getting drier as I advance in years. I posted a similar list in my journal and in the CV thread on the Mane board some time ago; I plan on updating this list as time goes by.

Shampoo Bar Reviews

Babassu & Marshmallow: Very rich and moisturizing, makes my hair super shiny. Hair gets oily a tad sooner than usual. Big thumbs up, though.

Carrot Milk & Honey: Haven't tried that yet, as I am not overly fond of carrots.

Chamomile & Citrus: One of the few shampoo bars I reordered as a full size so far. Very cleansing, giving me clean, fluffy hair for a long time. Keeper!

Herb Garden: Very cleansing, strong herby smell. Another one I reordered as a full-sized bar.

Honey Beer & Egg: Rich lather, giving great shine and added body. It tends to dry out my hair, though. I ordered a full size but use it very seldom. I think of it as a protein treatment and use it accordingly.

Extra Honey Beer & Egg: Never tried it.

Lavender Spice: Tried it, didn't care for the smell, and gave it away in the swap box. Lavender and cloves don't go together well IMO.

Mud & Clay: Didn't seem to clean very well. Used it a few times, but rather think I gave it away in the swap box, too. On a whim I ordered a full size with my last order, so I might revise my opinion on this one.

Neem & Tea Tree: Never tried it. I loathe the smell of TT oil, so I'm not keen on giving this bar a go.

Nettle: One of my favourites! Nice herby smell, similar to Herb Garden. Cleansing, but not drying. If I went on a lonely island and could only take one shampoo bar this would probably be it.

Rosemary Lavender Aloe: Never tried it, but have a sample on the way. I hope it doesn't smell too much of tea tree oil.

Rosemary Mint: “Quite nice, but didn't do anything special for me. No plans on reordering.” – that was what I wrote in my journal about half a year ago. I have ordered a full bar since and really love it! Nice minty scent (I suspect Ida's sample bars are a little older than her full sizes, so they tend to smell less strongly), cleansing but not drying. Keeper!

Summer Sunshine: Great! Great! Great! Love the smell, the cleansing properties, just everything. Even my BF comments on the lovely aroma when I'm in the shower. One of the shampoo bars I reordered in full size almost immediately.

Soap Bar Reviews
A review of the bars
Claudia has tried!

Avocado Oats & Shea: Great [hair] conditioner, nice for skin as well. Smell is nothing special, though.

Chocolate Almond: Ordered a sample, decided the smell was too strong, and so it's been sitting here unused. I did order a full size as a Christmas gift, because it's just so pretty.

Citrus Woods Green Tea: I love the smell! Very unusual – woodsy, sort of masculine. I'll definitely reorder.

Cucumber Lime Yogurt: The very first CV soap I ever tried, because everybody simply raved about it. All I can say is they were right. It cleans very well, tightening the pores, but at the same time it is very moisturizing. I reordered a full size, and it just lasts and lasts and lasts. In fact I wish it would get finished a little faster as I'd like to try some different ones.

Dead Sea Spa: It definitely took some time for me to warm towards this soap. Didn't think it was that special at first. Just lately I can smell the sea salt when I use it - maybe my sense of smell has gotten keener (I noticed this with other CV bars, too). Not sure if I'll reorder, though - there are just too many soaps I still haven't tried.

Eggnog Honey & Spice: Got this as a free sample, but haven't had the time to try it yet. It smells delicious - makes me wanna take a bite.

Honey Beer: One of the ones I like so-so. I used to like it as a conditioner but have found others that work better for me.

Honey Butter: Awful for my hair, great for my skin - super-duper moisturizing!

Lavender Oatmeal Spice: Now that I come to think of it it wasn't the Lavender Spice shampoo but this soap I gave away in the swap box. It's just so not my cup of tea.

Lavender & Rosemary: I ordered a full size as a Christmas gift, just ´cause it looks so pretty. I got a (free) sample of my own since. Nice old-fashioned scent that gets me the occasional compliment after a shower.

Pumpkin Orange Spice: Lecker, lecker, lecker! I was one of those that kept nagging Ida to make another batch when it was sold out for the season, and I have been worried that she might regret it; so I was relieved to see it's sold out again (and of course I ordered a bar).

Rhassoul Yogurt Complexion: Ordered a full size on a whim, and haven't regretted it, though it's been some time since I last used it. It's a very cleansing face and body soap and one of the few soap bars I can occasionally use successfully as a shampoo. I also like to make a face mask with it – slather it on, let it sit for a couple of minutes, then wash it off. It cleans the pores and tightens the skin.

Scarborough Fair: I ordered it because it looked so fruity-flowery in the picture, and the name made my think of cotton candy (thinking of the Hamburger Dom, I suppose). But of course it´s "parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme"! Very strong herbal smell. Don't think I'll reorder.

Shea Rose Clay: I'm not fond of rose cosmetics, but there have been so many positive reviews about this soap that I decided to order. It's a great conditioner and one of my staples (my hair really seems to love shea butter), the colour is gorgeous, and the smell not too strong. A definite keeper! I also love to use it on my face.

Click link to read disclaimer concerning liability and health information.